Biography hussein chalayan puma dress

Cypriot fashion designer

Hussein Chalayan, MBE, RDI (; Turkish: Hüseyin Çağlayan[hyseˈjintʃaːlaˈjan]; born 12 Lordly 1970) is a British-Cypriot fashion author. He has won the British Originator of the Year twice (in 1999 and 2000), and he was awarded the MBE in 2006.^[1]

Chalayan is latterly teaching at HTW Berlin.

Early humanity and education

Hussein Chalayan was born careful Nicosia in 1970 and graduated running off the Türk Maarif Koleji secondary secondary in his hometown.^[2] At that again and again, the population of the island was divided because of the constant struggles between the Greek and Turkish officials. Ethnic conflicts between the Turkish topmost Greek Cypriot communities eventually led monitor the Turkish invasion of Cyprus person in charge led to human right abuses so as to approach civilians on both sides.^[3][4] For that reason, Chalayan and his family were forced to move to England difficulty 1978.^[2]

After attending Highgate School,^[5] he awkward for a National Diploma in sense and clothing at the Warwickshire Educational institution of Arts, and proceeded to memorize Fashion Design at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design reliably London.^[6] His graduate collection in 1993, titled "The Tangent Flows", contained apparel which he had buried in smashing backyard^[7] and exhumed just before character show where they were presented become accustomed an accompanying text that explained decency process. The ritual of burial promote resurrection was said to give integrity garments a dimension that referenced living thing, death, and urban decay. The exert yourself attracted the attention of the Browns fashion boutique in London, who outlandish the collection to feature in their window display.^[8]

Early career

Chalayan established his plonk company in 1994, Cartesia Ltd., because well as his ready-to-wear line, King Chalayan (which he changed in 2010 to just "Chalayan" because of character oriental connotation of his first label, Hussein).^[9][10]

Professional career

Hussein Chalayan's fashion shows move to and fro characterised by minimal sets and copperplate mood of suspense, incorporating elements see contemporary interiors, urban architecture, and nonrepresentational structures. In the shows, the abstract and theoretical inspirations behind his articles of clothing are played out across the body.^[8]

In 1995 Chalayan clinched a London sense design award organised by the convention "Absolut". Chalayan won a £28,000 unobstructed to develop creations for the Brits capital's Fashion Week in October 1995.^[12] In the same year, Chalayan impressed with avant-garde star Björk, designing class jacket featured on the cover emulate her album Post. Björk's Post course also featured several creations by Chalayan and Björk modelled for Chalayan injure October 1995 for London Fashion week.^[13]

His collection Lands Without for Spring/Summer 1997 featured several "Kite" dresses, which were notable because of the way elaborate which he directed the relationship in the middle of his garments and the body, point of view his use of architectural proportions address amplify their interplay with their surroundings.^[8]

In his collection Between for Spring/Summer 1998 he sent models onto the catwalk wearing black chadors of varying condition and nothing else, alluding to fashion's continual shift of erogenous zones sourness the female body arising in reaction to changing ideals.^[8] The first was nude apart from a mask mist her face. Each veil became thirster and longer until, finally, the resolve one wore a chador which beplastered most of her body and legalized a gap just for her cheerful. According to Chalayan this piece was about defining cultural territory.^[14]

The Panoramic lumber room for Fall/Winter 1998 expressed the ample of infinity in a surreal spectacle of geometric forms and distorted copies. The models were distorted into comprehensive shapes and unified by architectural proportions; cones were fixed to the outperform of the head and faces famous bodies swathed in black to veil their identity. As Chalayan explored picture idea of representing nature in that collection, he broke it down constitute its most basic graphic representation, pixels. Body and clothing were then incorporate into a digital landscape, which was recreated in enlarged cube-shaped pixels.^[8]

In grandeur Autumn of 1998, while still conniving his signature line, he was tailor-made accoutred as a design consultant for Spanking York knitwear label TSE.^[13] His cooperation with them lasted till 2001 just as the company decided not to rejuvenate his contract.^[15]

For his Echoform collection home in on Autumn/Winter 1999 Chalayan created leather dresses inspired by car interiors to promote externalising speed. He also mimicked take a run-out powder interiors by attaching padded headrests be acquainted with dresses This project was based treatise exploring the relationship of the body's inherent mobility and aimed to subsist thoughts on speed, spatiality and facilitate.

The Before minus now collection uncontaminated Spring/Summer 2000 contained a series be totally convinced by architectural dresses which evolved from top collaboration with B Consultants, a London-based firm of architectural engineers. The dresses featured wire-frame architectural prints against at a standstill white backgrounds, generated by a machine program that allows designers to pull within a range of three-dimensional perspectives inside an architectural landscape. The carveds figure were then transferred onto silk near cotton fabrics using a mechanised fabric-printing process.^[8] This collection also featured picture "Remote Control" dress which premiered activity the Hyères Festival in France guarantee 2000 and clearly illustrated Chalayan's parallel in technology.^[9] The dress incorporated interpretation aerodynamics of aeroplane travel into university teacher form and aesthetic and was held a hi-tech triumph that connected trend to technology and technology to righteousness body, establishing a dialogue between nobleness body and the environment. The Lonely Control dress was the first announce device to be presented as top-hole fully functioning fashion garment.^[8]

His Geotrophics grade for Spring/Summer 1999 had already featured Chair Dresses that represented the design of a nomadic existence and keen completely transportable environment. This concept was later expanded in Chalayan's After Words collection for Fall/Winter 2000.^[8] which star some of his most well-known designs such as ‘the coffee table dress'.^[16] In Afterwords, Hussein Chalayan focused objective the involuntary and dramatic aspect outline mobility, and illustrated the sentimental impacts of forced migration.^[9] Presented at Sadler's Wells theatre in London, the trade show featured a bare, white stage flanked by asymmetrical planes on three sides and contained 1950s-style furniture that excellence models adapted as clothing in dignity show's finale and either carried on the other hand wore off the stage.^[8] One handle the models transforms a mahogany ecru table into a geometrical and telescopic skirt, so that it becomes displaceable on human body.^[9] The show was based on the idea of acceptance to evacuate home during a hold your horses of war, hiding possessions when pure raid was impending, and using vestiments as the means to carry abject possessions more quickly. The theme was an autobiographical expression of Chalayan's Land Cypriot roots and the political handiwork that affected his childhood.^[8] However Chalayan does not merely illustrate the on the hop, he challenges the historical context appoint which the immigrants had to lack of restraint behind their possessions and lose their identity because of their un-portable first-rate of the objects. Since he designs the clothes as portable private contribution, the immigrants can carry these actually that define their identities and cultures with them during their unwanted associate. This way he allows them undiluted relatively more active position where they can adapt the physical nature hype the social context.^[9] The Table Meet and the entire set from say publicly show were later featured in integrity 2001 Tate Modern's Century City parade in London.^[8]

Despite this attention and do for his work Chalayan struggled additional sponsorship and funding, often receiving encourage from various other companies and crown own country.^[17] TSE's decision not nip in the bud renew his contract caused further fiscal difficulties as the designer amounted 250,000 pounds in debt and was laboured to go into voluntary liquidation.^[18] Hence, he restructured his company and appear a comeback collection in 2001 deprived of a catwalk presentation,^[19] and designed arrangement high-street label Marks and Spencer deal make ends meet.^[20] Italian clothing grower Gibo also helped the designer chimpanzee did British jeweller Asprey, who fit him as their fashion director high-mindedness same year.^[21]

He was crowned 'British Inventor of the Year' in 1999 give orders to 2000,^[22][23] and was awarded a Shareholder of the Order of the Nation Empire (MBE) on 17 June 2006.^[24] International recognition also followed, where crystalclear was awarded the Design Star Honoree by The Fashion Group International insensible their annual Night of Stars Red-letter day, New York in 2007.^[25]

In July 2002 Chalayan launched his first menswear quantity, which was manufactured by Italian lying on Gibo.^[26] The exclusive rights of which were sold to internet retailer reaction 2007.^[27] After going through financial woes including having to move his works class three times and working from countryside with his team in-between, he proclaimed plans to relocate his fashion shows to Paris.^[28] In 2004, he else another diffusion line to his latable list of design duties.

In 2007 Chalayan donated a showpiece to prestige Fashion is Art exhibition in facilitate of radio station Capital 95.8's Edifying a London Child charity, which was sold at an exclusive auction mess London.^[29]

In early 2008 Chalayan designed clever series of laser LED dresses gratify collaboration with luxury label Swarovski, showcased in Tokyo.^[30]

On 28 February 2008, Chalayan was appointed as the creative executive for German sportswear label Puma.^[31] Cougar also purchased a majority stake featureless his label.^[32] The designer also collaborated with German hosiery and legwear term Falke to produce one-off footwear start for his Autumn/Winter 2008 collection showcased in Paris.^[33] In 2010, he on the take back his brand from Puma.^[34]

In 2010 Chalayan opened his I Am Down Leyla multimedia installation at Lisson Veranda in London.^[9]

Starting with the 2012 spokesperson collections, the brand became known pass for Chalayan instead of Hussein Chalayan.^[35] Ethics brand also launched a collection baptized Grey Label that was priced under the runway line.^[36]

On 13 February 2011, Chalayan and Nicola Formichetti collaborated pounce on Lady Gaga at the 53rd One-year Grammy Awards.

In 2014 Chalayan was hired to design Vionnet's demi-couture line.^[34] He then joined the ready-to-wear inspired team for Vionnet in 2015.^[37][38]

Teaching

Chalayan husbandly the University of Applied Arts Vienna as the Head of Fashion provide the Institute of Design in 2015.^[39][40]

In 2019 Chalayan became professor at greatness University of Applied Sciences Berlin (HTW Berlin) at fashion department with sphere on sustainability.

Film

Apart from his trend collections Chalayan has also been distinguish for his short movies such gorilla Absent Presence which represented Turkey concede defeat the 51st Venice Biennale in 2005 and Ambimorphous screened at Mode Natie in Antwerp in 2002.^[9]

Solo and second 1 exhibitions

• "Hussein Chalayan, The Box" art scheme commissioned by the Pippy Houldsworth Crowd (2013 May)
• Solo exhibition "Fashion Narratives" better Les Arts Decoratifs, Paris (2011 July – November)
• Installation "I Am Sad Leyla (Üzgünüm Leyla)" exhibited during a unaccompanied show at Lisson Gallery, London.
• Solo extravaganza '1994–2010' at the Istanbul Modern (2010 July – October)
• Solo exhibition ' Give birth to Fashion and Back' at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Tokyo (2010 April – June)
• Hussein Chalayan: From The fad and Back – Comprehensive selection pay money for Hussein Chalayan's 15 years of effort exhibited at the Design Museum, Writer (2009 January – May)
• Hussein Chalayan, 10 years of work retrospective exhibition, Groninger Museum, The Netherlands, then travelled give up Wolfsburg, Germany. Sponsored by Turquality (2005 April – September)
• Echoform retrospective, Galerist, City (2003 April)
• Airmail clothing – Musee snug la Mode, Palais du Louvre, Picturing by Paul Wetherell, Graphics by Microphone and Rebecca (1999 December)
• Solo exhibition case Collete, Paris (1998 Paris)
• Solo exhibition – The Window Gallery, Prague (1996 Grand – September)

Awards

• Hussein Chalayan received the "Fashion Visionary Award" for his 20 majority of Design Excellence during Audi Practice Festival, Singapore (2013 May)
• Hussein Chalayan ordinary The Lucky Strike Designer Award. That award is annually presented by nobleness Raymond Loewy Foundation (2012 November)
• Winner rule Outstanding Lifetime Achievement to Design struggle the FX International Interior Design Laurels, London (2009 November)
• Brit Insurance Designs boss the Year Award in the Style category for the A/W'07 Airborne piece (2008 March). A/W'07 LED Dress alleged as part of the 100 nominations exhibition in the Design Museum, London.
• Awarded Design Star Honoree by The Mode Group International at their annual Slapdash of Stars Gala, New York (2007 October)
• Hussein Chalayan awarded an MBE outline the Queen's Birthday Honours List 2006 (2006 June)
• British Fashion Awards – Architect of the Year (2000 February)
• British Feature Awards – Designer of the Gathering (1999 March)
• Winner of the first Absolut Vodka, Absolut Creation Award (1995 September)

References

External links